• Francesca Chelli

Dior Cruise: Step out of Lines?


I spoke already about balloons and traveling, two topics fascinating me I found today, mixed with ancient and ever green matters, such as primitiveness, mysticism, which talk about a woman never stuck but always on the move, discovering herself and undergoing a constant search for spirituality.

Today, at the Maison Dior, the show has been accompanied by strong tribal rhythms, and under their strong sounds have been launched rich messages, whose influences come by different worlds, such as painting, art, writing, represented by other women, Giorgia O'Keeffe and Vicky Noble, Maria Grazie Chiuri inspirational muses.

I have found a deep conceptual work in this collection, which develops on various lines, and a very innovative research that has resumed some elements of the past into a present and very contemporary context.

Beyond hats, feathers, fringes, beads and micro embroidery, what I loved more in the Dior Cruise 2018 collection was the combination of different and distant elements: the earth, rough and crisp part of nature - depicted by raffia, here widely used as material in the garments, together with the ambition towards lightness - here symbolized by the softness of the silk inlays, the fullness of the alpacas, the delicacy of lace.

This contrast of textiles marked even more by the variation of the earth colors - with its brown, natural and intense beige - has led to special and original garments, made even more unique by animal depictions along which there is the research Monsieur Dior made himself in 1951, when he resumed some stone paintings belonging to the rock art of the Lascaux cave, discovered in 1940, where according to Georges Bataille was portrayed human race dawn.

To walk in a desert, which could well represent life daily hardness, it is necessary to hold your extremities well protected and comfortable: here we are with deserts boots, the amphibians - which in this case have convinced me to be possibly my next purchase.

And together with amphibians, higher or shorter,

the philosophy of the Sauvage theme is unfolded, through long dresses, wide skirts, asymmetrical jackets, cardigans, a type of clothing that is free spirit, untied by certain conventions and certainly very self-confident in launching towards self-affirmation. Almost a rebel spirit, which even though accepting certain codes, discards itself to declare one's own freedom.

Get away from the tough ground to fly upwards, being the Cruise an in-between the two more institutional collections, it can match with these digressions.

I confess that during the show I felt almost overwhelmed by the many and multiples different inspirations I was trying to gather and rationalize, and which then magically have shown to be very collateral and approachable.

In fact, the Sauvage of the caves merging with the black and white front, an American and European classic, here seen in the many long and short lace dresses, and in the wide matching pullovers.

And then macramé or embroidered tarot cards dresses, this third front blending itself to confirm the strong feminine mark - the woman as the creator of a drastic change and the tarot card symbols representing it. Upon an outfit of the collection the card of death is even embroidered, the clear emblem that calls for rebirth and a new beginning.

The new t-shirt with round tarots elements, opposed to the traditional square shape of the cards.

The accessories this time are sandals, flat and decorated. And each outfit is accompanied by a hat lined under the chin.

A kind of primordial primitiveness approaching a traditional aesthetic that blends with mystical beliefs to create timeless pieces, which perhaps seem to deviate from a trend of a moment, giving instead ample space to personalization and individual interpretation.

Nothing is excluded. Everything seems to be allowed to a woman who can and must choose, immune to stiff conventions.

The Season of freedom, as Cruise 2018 is representing.

I liked so much the classic 'Bar Jacket', designed by Christian Dior in 1947, now presented in raffia natural colors, and the Dio(r)evolution bag, in a fierce version both in various colors and embroidered version.

A collection that breaks a bit the lines up in the Dior Maison, for a woman who wants to express freely, protected as the Dior tradition wants by amulets and jewelry, to meet with the unknown and unexpected future in the Dog's year, as the Chinese horoscope predicts...

Dior Trunk Show Cruise 2018, Maison Dior, Via Montenapoleone Milano

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