• Francesca Chelli

Si Vous aimez l'amour Vous aimerez le Surréalisme


"What guides me first of all is the shape: the feminine body at the base, the art of the couturier is to establish and to proportion on it a set of volumes that will exalt the shapes.I would never choose a fabric because of its exquisite color, but from the beginning for its quality that I think can perfectly adapt to the shape I'm looking for. Couture is first of all the marriage between the shape and the fabric."

I drew these words from the book 'Christian Dior & moi', the autobiographical book written by the couturier, which I read as it was just released in 2016, thanks to a wonderful person who gave it to me in French - not to lose even a nuance - and I was struck by this aura of charm and mystery that has enveloped the whole life of Christian Dior, and that has remained over time, enhancing itself.

Ten years of success in life, and a planetary eternity later. In July I wrote on this blog about the 70th of the Maison Dior and its celebration at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, where has been marked the ability of the designers who succeeded Christian Dior to keep alive the values ​​and the heritage of the Maison, being capable each time to interpret and renew.

I will never get annoyed of saying that the story of Christian Dior has always fascinated me. In Granville, a clairvoyant reading his hand predicted that at some point in his life he would be moneyless, but the women would help him and thanks to them he would achieve success, he would become rich and forced to cross the oceans often, prophecy punctually occurred.

He founded the Maison at 30th Avenue Montaigne, exactly in the building where one day he had passed, and seeing the pure and elegant lines he had thought that, if anything had started something of his own, it would have been exactly there.

The attraction for the unusual, the need to express himself against the tide, a public image of grandeur and a private one reserved - and in the book this is well told - an inner fire to which give expression, the many small superstitions, the talismans, the number 8, the lucky star, the four-leaf clover always in the pocket during his fashion shows, the recourse to consultations of the clairvoyant of trust.

His first collection was presented in 1947 - the New Look - and success in Europe and overseas was decreed.

The famous 'Veste Jacket' was born just then.

I am fascinated by the contemporary vision of this 'Couturier du rêve' ahead of its time, but with an imperishable classicism and elegance that have made and still make women more beautiful. How much do I like to put my hands in the pockets of his skirts and dresses, and how much I do agree with his statements about colors: "For the evening white is the most beautiful color, a little black dress is essential in a woman's wardrobe, pink is the color of happiness and femininity, every woman should have a pink item in her wardrobe".

And do you know what the Trafalgar effect is? In every fashion show, Christian Dior was always presenting a model dressed entirely in red, to break the continuity and keep high the level of attention with a surprise effect, which he defined as Trafalgar effect, derived from the red color of Admiral Nelson's tails in that naval battle. A brilliant idea, which is also respected today in all the fashion shows, as in the Spring Summer 2018 collection at the Musée Rodin.

Such an amazing a story, you have to know its content because it is not just a matter of wearing a dress or pronouncing the designer's name. It has to do with something more ancestral, mysterious, inexplicable, and with the ability to generate a force of immense attraction. The name itself, Di-or, does not make it a divinity cloaked in a halo of gold?

And gold too was present in this last fashion show.

The night before attending a Dior runway I sleep very little and badly, it is the excitement that takes me, as for the kids before an important event, and in this fragmented sleep I think back to the words of the book: "The clothes are for me a true obsession: they are hell and at the same time paradise, the enchantment and torment of my life ". What a passion!

This man deserved eternal success. And the delicate and intense Spring Summer 2018 collection returns to the life of Monsieur Christian Dior, when he was an art dealer and was a friend of Salvador Dali, André Breton, Max Ernst, Paul Eluard.

A white and black checkered catwalk, a succession of mostly white and black dresses, masks, feathers, sculptures of eyes, ears and noses hanging over our heads. And to pay tribute to all this and to the intelligent reinterpretation of Monsieur Dior heritage by Maria Grazia Chiuri, a parterre of celebrities from all over the world. You can see me in the first raw...

And what about the Grand Masqueted Bal on the evening at the Rodin Museum? Enchanted does not make the idea ...

A dream, with mystical, esoteric, surrealist touches.

A mix between Alice in Wonderland, elite and eccentricity. Masks, feathers, the Mad Hatter and many peculiar figures are a bit everywhere, like this enchantress with a candelabrum on her head,

while champagne and mini chocolate cakes shaped as dominoes are served by staff with clouds painted on their faces and shirts,

and houses of cards hang on the head of surreal figures wandering between the lights and the very high music.

Everything is illusion and dream, but surrealism wants to go beyond what you see with your eyes.

"If you are in love with love, you will love surrealism". Who knows how Christian Dior would comment this evening.

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